This jacket and waist coat are said to have once belonged to Jean-Baptiste Donatien de Vimeur, comte de Rochambeau, the leader of the French troops who came to the United States and changed the course of the Revolutionary War. They have been in Dey Mansion’s archives collection since 1934; the First Oval Office Project weekend is the first time they have been on public display.
Help Conserve These Items!
The Rochambeau Jacket has been restored, but the Waist Coat is still in need of professional conservation so that these items can be displayed more often at Dey Mansion. Interested in contributing to these efforts? Donations to the Friends of Dey Mansion will help us preserve these pieces of American history and share them with more people.
How to Donate:
Ask a staff member on-site at Dey Mansion, or call us at (973) 706-6640.
The Jacket
The jacket features a brown and black stripe patterned silk accented with dramatic silk embroidery. It is knee length, with curving center front edges, full skirt back, a stand collar, and fitted sleeves with cuffs.
The silhouette of the garment is consistent with those worn in the second half of the 18th century, particularly after 1760. The curving center front edges were worn open, to allow the matching waist coat to show underneath the jacket. The fabric is a fancy weave, with alternating vertical stripes of warp-faced satin weave, plain weave, and a loosely woven weft-faced satin weave.
The jacket and fabric-covered buttons are all adorned with elaborate floral silk embroidery and applique. An applique scalloped border design features a white woven silk background
with a fine net overlay, with small embroidered half blossoms within each scallop.
The Waist Coat
The waist coat extends to the top of the wearer’s thighs and would have been paired with the fitted jacket. It features a brown and black stripe patterned silk accented with dramatic silk embroidery. It continues the embroidery designs from the jacket, which would have been shown off through the jacket’s open front.
Why Do These Items Need to Be Conserved?
The Rochambeau Jacket and Waist Coat are original artifacts from the 18th century. They are in remarkable condition for their age, but they are not in a condition to be regularly displayed. We usually store them in our archives. The Jacket was conserved in November 2024, but the Waist Coat still needs to be conserved.
The fine decorative silk that makes up the pieces has some tears, and has damage from perspiration and repairs over the years. The lining of the garments is damaged as well. However, the fine embroidery that makes these pieces such a joy to look at is still in good condition.
The conservation process includes a delicate cleaning using special techniques, followed by the insertion of stabilizing fabrics. The deteriorating linings are encapsulated, saving the original fabric while adding structure to the garments. Critical areas are patched in an industry-appropriate manner.